Soy candles and fragrance oils are very sensitive to temperature fluctuations during the actual pouring of the candle. Adding to this, curing times for soy candles are significantly longer than with traditional paraffin wax candles (who needs tradition?). When we heat our wax to a minimum of 185 degrees fahrenheit the milky white soy chips turn into a beautiful golden liquid. If our fragrance oils have a flash point (we'll talk about flash point in another post) above 185 degrees we will mix in the oils at that temperature, let it cool down to 135 or so, and then pour the oil/wax mixture into our jars. If the flash point for the fragrance oil is somewhere under 185 we wait until the wax has cooled enough to integrate the oils. This helps eliminate some of the common problems 'home-based-candle-makers' come across when pouring their own candles.
We pour all of our candles one at a time and batch scents together to create uniformity among the batches. It doesn't exactly matter what vessel we're pouring into as long as it's safe to reach optimal burning temperatures. Our wood wicks burn evenly across the entire candle creating a pool that burns for approximately twice as long as a similarly sized paraffin candle. We don't use a paraffin blend to cheat our way to a cold scent throw. The cold throw is determined by the percentage of fragrance used in relation to the amount of wax melted. Some companies go out of their way to use double the scent or even paraffin blends to help the scent integrate with the wax. Soy wax doesn't always cooperate with fragrance oils, therefore finding the correct percentage of oil maximizes the cold scent throw and guarantees that our candles stand up with the big name competitors without having to resort to laziness.
All of our cold scent throws are in direct result of hours testing the way the oil mixes with the wax. When you purchase your first wax & wick 100% soy candle you'll notice a clean-burning difference immediately. Say no to paraffin and yes to soy.